Notes on circumventing Torres del Paine in Chilean Patagonia, “The O-Trek.”
by Madison Sokukai McClintock
Late Autumn, end of the season.
Distance: ~75 miles / 119 km.
Total Elevation Gain: ~16,309ft / 4,971 meters
8 days walking, weighted by basic survival supplies, 24+ meals worth of food, the non-negotiables – camera, watercolors, binoculars. Feeling the decision of every chosen ounce with each sopping wet step on muddy Magellanic forest trails and up steep glacial passes. Fifty pounds heavier is the new equilibrium.
Many moments to marvel at the bigness of ancient granite. Noticing its relative separateness in form. Then long days to blend self into the same landscape. Turning steps into miles. To arrive at the goal within the goal within the goal. How is it that we anticipate something so intensely that time solidifies like cold honey, then quickly it arrives and passes?
Mindstreams less orderly than actual streams. But both meeting obstruction as an opportunity for new flow. Heavy-breathing Voice Memos to self – efforting desperately to keep trail realizations in the thinking mind with tech. Though deep down you know it’s working on you unconsciously even if you forget it.
Color changing lenga trees are the silver lining when iconic glaciers hide behind storm clouds after slogging before dawn, rain-drenched and wind-slapped, up to a mountain pass. The poetry still makes your frozen face grin as you whisper to yourself: “MudSeason.”
Mice on parade on top of tents. And in tents. Feverishly claiming high value food items (Snickers bar) you were looking forward to and some you were relying on. Remembering we’ve competed with these animals for what feels like our entire evolution. At least they didn’t run across your face like they did others in camp.
Surrendering to the arising presence of human connection when you were seeking solitude. Feeling sympathetic joy when a familiar face arrives at camp – dropping their pack relieved and exhausted. Having walked the same path but in their own way, with their own obstacles.
Humbled by unpreparedness – hands can’t break down camp on freezing mornings in wet gloves. And so, spending a cozy evening together, roasting socks like s’mores skewered on trekking poles in front of refugio fires – we all took shifts getting our gear dry.
Aptly-known as an iconic wonder of the world, Patagonia is powerful place. And when you move around its wind-blistered peaks, along its miles-long glaciers and lakes, over its rushing rivers and within its valleys, you feel that power moving through you. Even when your legs ache.
SCHEDULE 4/7-4/13
Monday: 6:30AM Zazen, Andy opening
Tuesday: 6:30AM, Zazen, Andy opening
Wednesday: 6:30AM Zazen, Dokusan with Issan Sensei
Thursday: 6:30AM Zazen, Andy opening
Friday: 6:30AM, Zazen, Dokusan with Zenho Roshi, Dokusan with Issan Sensei
Noah’s Poem:
The doorways are disappearing
And I find myself within
A circle
I park my car at Trader Joe’s and
A small bird stands on the railing in front of me She looks around and I look at her
At Jessica’s apartment
We make dinner and bathe and watch Netflix in bed
Beyond better than
Beyond worse than
Beyond gates opened or closed
This week I am in a circle
And friends are becoming vivid and
Beautiful
No Gate Zen Center 